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British Pie Week is the perfect occasion to celebrate London’s rich food heritage and the joy to be found in upholding tradition. This year, we’re collaborating with East End institution, M. Manze, whose lauded pies have been given a gourmet twist at The Wolseley City, for a few days only. Emma Harrington, at the helm of London’s prized pie house, tells us more…
Pie and mash is proper London comfort food; it’s what people in this city have been choosing for generations when they want something honest, warm and filling. It’s not fussy, it’s not complicated, and that’s exactly why people still love it today.
London changes so fast, but pie and mash shops are little anchors. They’re places people return to with family, on lunch breaks, after work. They’re the kind of spots where you see the same faces week after week, and that sense of familiarity becomes part of your day. In that sense, it’s much the same as the idea behind going to a treasured restaurant time and again, because it’s rooted in a sense of ritual.
It’s a family story in every sense. It started with my Italian great grandfather, Michele Manze, who took over the premises from his British father-in-law in 1902. The shop has been passed down through the generations. Same interiors, same recipes. Now, myself, my father Rick and my husband Tom run it together. My parents met at Manzes, making it a part of their love story, too. For now, our focus is keeping it alive, familiar and loved – exactly how people expect it to be. It’s part of daily life for Londoners. It’s the smell of freshly baked pies in the morning, the counter bustle at lunch, shouting out orders, and people smiling because they’re reminded of their childhood.
The Wolseley City gets it. The restaurant has that relaxed confidence, combined with a sense of comfort and quality, which feels very aligned with how we think about M. Manze too. The restaurant is genuine, welcoming and built on experience rather than trends.
Pie and mash is in my blood, it’s all I’ve ever known. I started working at the shops properly as a Saturday girl when I was 13, but long before that I was always there. During school holidays my dad would bring me in with him – I’d watch him making pies, I’d be allowed to clean the tables, and then sit in the office pretending to answer the phones like it was the most important job in the world. It’s never just been about food to me, it’s been my childhood, which I am very proud of. The smells, the routine, the people, all completely familiar and comforting. I genuinely love the pies, and now it’s come full circle because it’s the one meal I can get all three of my boys to finish without a fight.
We want M. Manze to still be here in another hundred years. That means keeping the food and the feel exactly right, while also making it easy and accessible for people discovering us now. We try not to overthink it too much. The aim is simple: to leave the brand in a good place, still loved, still relevant, and still part of everyday London life for families, just as it has been for generations.
To mark British Pie Week, we’ve partnered with London institution M. Manze, whose secret-recipe crusts will be encasing two limited-edition fillings courtesy of our head chef Jai Shaikh. Choose between a classic pie: rump of beef with smoked bone marrow, or a vegetarian: curried lentils, roasted root vegetable, and coconut. Alongside, we’ve also devised a playful selection of Sarsaparilla-based drinks (both soft and with alcohol) to honour the City’s most time-honoured pie-eating rituals.
The Wolseley City x M. Manze for British Pie Week: Available Monday, 2 March – Sunday, 8 March
The Wolseley City is situated on King William Street in the heart of the Square Mile, less than a minute walk from Monument Station, 3 minute walk from Bank Station or a 6 minute walk from London Bridge Station.
68 King William Street, London EC4N 7HR
Monument Station
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